Exactly why is it that things worked for are sweeter than those that require no effort? Remember those thorny roadside berries collected in hats and indelibly stained tee shirts to be carried home for summer desserts eaten in the twilight on the porch? Of course, no reality can ever compare to the standards of memory. Nor should it. It would only spoil the fun. Memories and daydreams may easily be conjured to give another generation a memory to hold in a fuzzy glow and to attempt replication. Though luscious raspberries, black and red, are plentiful during their short season, they do not keep for long. Their season can easily be extended by freezing (see below). There are, however, other ways to stretch that flavor out. Coulis is a simple recipe, one that intensifies the flavor of the fruit and, drizzled over ice cream or panna cotta, is delicious. Berry pies of many combinations are a New England staple. As are bowls full of fresh berries topped with a sprinkle of brown sugar or a whopping dollop of heavy cream, whipped or spooned. These berries don’t need a lot of help. Not to say that slightly more complex recipes are worth the minimal effort they require. For example, there are granitas in which the concentration of flavor is so rich that it ought to be illegal or at least sinful. Well perhaps it is, so the only thing to do is to indulge gleefully. Today’s contribution to such indulgence is Black and Red Raspberry Granita, which is guaranteed not to elicit a Bronx cheer (AKA a raspberry) from anyone. The web site has previously published raspberry recipes including: Blackberry Blueberry Pie, Blackberry Panna Cotta, Blackberry and Red Wine Gelatin, Simple Raspberry Tart, and Raspberry Goat Cheese Pudding.
COULIS: Place ripe raspberries in a bowl and crush with a fork or the back of a large spoon. Pour the berries through a sieve into another bowl, using the back of the spoon to rub the berry pulp through it. Sweeten with confectioner’s sugar and stir. Place in an airtight container until used. FREEZING WHOLE RASPBERRIES: Place berries individually spaced on a baking sheet in a single layer and open freeze. Transfer to an airtight container and store up to 4 weeks.
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